Last week was our special time together. We chose to quietly celebrate 40 years of married life in the islands of Samoa. Last week we found Paradise. No cellphone, no book, no television or radio. No grandkids. Just us. Island time. Siesta time. Conversations as the sun set over the Pacific Ocean. Himself and I became willing captives in this beyond-our-Kiwi-lifestyle, traditional way of life of the friendly Samoan people.
Like Rupert Brooke the poet who visited Samoa, we were enchanted as we lay “on a mat” and looked “out on the white sand under the high palms and gentle sea, and the black line of a reef a mile out…”. We too met “the loveliest people in the world, moving and dancing like Gods and godesses. It is sheer beauty, so pure it is difficult to breathe in it.” Of course we took in the sights and familiarised ourselves with Samoan culture and history. We listened to the stories about legendary hotelier Aggie Grey and Robert Louis Stevenson who was known as Tusitala the soryteller. Film-makers have been inspired by the spectacular lagoons with their palm-fringed beaches. I must read James Michener again and see the movie Return to Paradise filmed at Matatau on Upolu Island. I didn’t need a book.The stories were there before me.
We trawled the local food and craft markets. Naturally, I was interested in what village people grew in their gardens and plantations. In our travels, I marvelled at how hard people in the villages work to live on meagre means. They fish in the lagoons and beyond the reef. They cultivate taro, breadfruit, papaya, plantains and other vegetables and fruits as food staples year-round for their large aiga (families). Their pride is reflected in their immaculately kept villages. There’s more in these islands: volcanic lava fields; the rainforests; fresh water streams and waterfalls; nature’s riot of colour repeated on the houses, churches and fale. A pod of whales cavorted on cue in the sea during one ferry trip. The turtles in Savaii were captivating.
Back at the resort into the night, there was Samoan dancing and singing and fresh game fish on the menu. It was all so leisurely. After a day in the tropical heat, a tall glass of gin, tonic and fresh lime poured over ice seemed just right. I wondered vaguely (ever so momentarily) how I would ever manage to go back to work and do all the physical gardening activities at home. Getting to know another country is exciting. Our time in Samoa was too short. We didn’t see it all but we will go back. This was our special time.
I even had to remind myself to take any photos at all such was the entranced state we found ourselves in.
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- Poolside looking towards our room and balcony on the second floor.
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- Setting sun shadows across the pool as viewed from our room.
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- Looking eastward from our room.
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- Lazing on the white sand under palms.
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- Surviving the midday in the heat having visited the markets downtown.
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- We joined Apia office workers in the shade during their lunch-break.
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- Lunch. Tasty locally grown tomatoes and crackers. The purple fruit was reminiscent of a passionfruit.
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- Driving through one of the many villages along the SW coast.
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- The gardens are full of brightly coloured foliage, papaya and breadfruit trees and vegetables such as taro.
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- Picture postcard palm-fringed beaches are throughout Samoa.
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- Driving a left-hand drive car on the ‘other’ side of the road was an interesting experience for us.
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- Looking down towards Apia on our way to the Robert Louis Stevenson museum at Vailima.
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- The historic home of RSL affectionately called Tusitala, the teller of stories.
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- Bromeliads growing in coconut fibre.
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- Tropical garden plantings
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- Mulifanua wharf was about 10 minutes from the Aggie Grey Lagoon Resort.
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- Looking-back to Upolu Island. Aggie Grey Lagoon Resort is just visible beyond the reef.
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- Passengers and trucks.
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- Passing the other inter-island ferry.
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- Berthing at the Salelologa Wharf.
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- Historic site on Savaii Island
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- Plant life is regenerating on the lava fields.
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- A moonscape is all that’s left after villages were destroyed by lava flows.
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- Concrete walls are all that remain of one of the ruined churches.
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- The corrugated roofing iron of one of the ruined churches is embedded in the lava.
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- The plant life adorns the Virgins Grave buried by the lava flow.
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- A moving and memorable experience to be able to ’swim’ with the turtles. This gentle creature almost “purred” when stroked under his neck.
Sarah said,
October 4, 2008 @ 8:00 pm
Beautiful description Jenny, I’m so jealous!
My Garden ~ Talofa! We were captivated by fa’a Samoa « My Garden … said,
February 23, 2009 @ 12:24 pm
[...] My Garden ~ Talofa! We were captivated by fa’a Samoa « My Garden … [...]
georgina said,
February 24, 2009 @ 10:12 pm
Hi sara its me gina I come from saleaula village its very beautiful island you are very lucky girl you trip and watch my village…….you watch the taupou and the church lava flow……Have good day and god bless you sis
hardworkinghippy said,
July 14, 2009 @ 11:40 am
This brought back so many memories of my visit to Samoa – thanks !
Lovely blog….
hardworkinghippy said,
July 14, 2009 @ 11:43 am
Ah – typed my URL wrongly – sorry !